Graham Mayor

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Cyprus 2008

2008 and the new year's gallery begins with photographs of the Kato Paphos redevelopment.

Click on a thumbnail for a larger view of the photograph.

So it's now official - the work on the redevelopment will last until May .....ish. The new sea wall is taking shape. Rose Corner doesn't look so rosy now.
All the shops have lost their verandas... ... and behind the Portopafos Hotel there is a large excavation... ... but from a distance all looks pretty normal.
Most of the hotels are closed and some, like the Alexander the Great, are refurbishing their communal areas. Paphos Municipal beach is all but deserted. Another week and the work continues relentlessly.
Over at Latsi (Latchi) the harbour is deserted ... ... whichever way you look. The Bath of Aphrodite has been cleaned up and ...
... around it new gardens have been planted. It's a fine walk along the coastal path from Latsi to Polis ... ... and a similar path is planned for Paphos for completion in 2010.
For the first time since the redevelopment began, pedestrians have been allowed to wander on the site ... ... but this is only because it is relatively safe and being Sunday there is no work in progress. The following sequence of pictures shows how desolate the place looks with the shops closed ...
... and the verandas missing. There is a lot of heavy machinery around ... ... and some of the work gives no clue as to its final purpose.
This is the row of restaurants opposite the old public swimming place ... ... including Chloes Chinese Restaurant. Across the road the old swimming place, formerly "Τα Μπανiα" restaurant is being rebuilt....
... but I have no idea (yet) what this will be. One lonely trader braves the mess to sell newspapers ... ... and the new Tea For Two restaurant will have a prime location when the work is done.
This view shows the last row of shops opposite the site of "Τα Μπανiα" restaurant McDonald's remains in business on the other side of the barricade... ... but the owners of this shop must be weeping at the loss of their expensively re-fitted forecourt.
Late afternoon and most of the people have wandered off. Alongside the sea wall a temporary roadway has been built into the sea to allow heavy lifting machines to place a new breakwater along the shoreline. More views of the shops ...
... and again ... ... and again. At the site of the former Sodap winery, work continues, slowly, on the massive new timeshare development.
Another week, and it appears that the new surface will be tarmac ... ... which suggests a giant car park ... ...and I am curious to see how they will deal with the shop fronts which now appear lower than the 'road'?
Is this another new building between the Portopafos and Annabel Hotels? Part of the new sea wall by the Portopafos Hotel. This restaurant owner recently refurbished these premises. Looks like he will be starting again?
A coastal walk from Paphos Airport to St. Georges is to be developed to cater for tourist's penchant for walking. The Chlorakas section is already complete, with this image marking the start of the path at the northern end. The path passes local beauty spots ... ... like this one near the Victoria Restaurant.
Sadly there are some blights along the way, but this will hopefully be cleared when work has finished on the nearby hotel. This is the southern end of the path. Walking north you come across another location known as St Georges where there is a boat shelter ...
... and a memorial to the EOKA patriots who fought against the British and to attempt to unite Cyprus with Greece (the consequences of which are still much in evidence in Cyprus) ... ... as noted on this board. 'Caique' is a reference to the fishing boat (below) ... ... and Digenis was the nom de guerre of General Georgios Grivas who landed arms at this location ...
... from this boat, preserved at the small museum. Despite the cold winter this succulent plant is already flowering at several locations along the path. Each local authority is responsible for its own section of the coastal path. In Kato Paphos work has begun ....
... but there is still a long way to go. Paphos lighthouse There are lots of catacombs in Paphos. This is the entrance to St. Solomon's (Agia Solomoni) catacomb ...
...which is still in use ... ... as a religious shrine. It is said that this pool has health giving properties (though don't think of drinking it). The pool is in complete darkness and the water is invisible in natural light ...
... and can only be seen if the surface is disturbed, as I found to my cost on an earlier visit. Nearby is another catacomb to explore ... ... with stairs ...
... and various openings in rocks ... ... where plants cling to the bare surface.

 

 Closer to home builders prepare a soak away for the plumbing for this new property, which will be connected to the mains sewerage within two years.
This is what the hole looked like before it was covered with a concrete cap. At Kato Paphos work forges ahead on the redevelopment... ... so the peace and tranquillity of out of season Curium is a welcome change.
Only at this time of year is this popular beach deserted ... ... here viewed from the headland above the beach. Another week and vast quantities of cobble stones ...
... have been delivered. The pallets are numbered and there are over 900 of them each containing 600  ... ... in two shades of grey and beige ... ... which will be laid by a team of Chinese craftsmen.
Coral Bay looks quiet at this time of year ... ... and there are no booze cruise ships to disturb the tranquillity. Spring is still a while away, but that has not stopped these caterpillars from making an appearance ...
... nor these of a different species. A couple of weeks have passed since the last of the redevelopment photos ... ... and work is under way on the massive task of laying the granite blocks.
Work began at the harbour end ... ... and if you think those workmen don't look very Chinese, you would be right. Because of 'visa difficulties' the work is being carried out by Bulgarian workmen instead.
Whoever it is that has to lay them ... ... the blocks keep on arriving. A week into the block laying and progress seems a little slow ...
... but there are lots of men set to the task. And could this be Paphos Pier The outlines for the pedestrian areas ...
... are taking shape ... ... but is this going to be ready ... ... in only two months time?
If not, the Portopafos Hotel ... ... which remains closed for the moment ... ... is going to suffer more than most.
Seven more weeks to the projected completion date and the paving is progressing well ... ... having already reached more than half way. A driver's eye view of the new roadway
The block work is now complete at the harbour end of the development The purpose of the strange structure on the new kiosk appears to be to hold up the new verandas. The tiled shop fronts are now almost complete and work is progressing fast on the granite blocks.
Saturday 12th April and this is the first day the new fountain has been in operation... ... and quite pretty it looks, though those outside the tourist areas, who have no water today, may not feel so enthusiastic. The kiosk veranda frames have been bolted into place.
The end is nigh ... ...and still the newsagent holds out. Good Friday and true to his word the Mayor of Paphos has the promenade open to pedestrians.
A close-up of the patterned block work A new swimming pool? ... but let's hope they remove the dangerous underwater projecting steel bars. Another look at the promenade.
The end of May and Kouris Dam looks very dry... ... but up in the mountains there is still water running in the streams. A selection of pictures ...
... from the delightful ... ... Kaledonia trail ... ... between Troodos ...
... and Platres. The path leads to the Kaledonia Falls, but for the full journey you need rather better footwear ... ... than I was wearing, so that will have to wait for another day. Is it me or does this tree stump look like a sheepdog?
Part of the radar installation at the summit of Olympus .... ... doesn't really mar the magnificent views ... ... though photography from here is frowned upon.
The delightful Venetian Kelefos (Tzielefou) Bridge ... ... from the top of the bridge, the view does not convey how steep the path is ... ... and it looks just as pretty from the other side of the stream.
Footpath for pensioners? It is certainly an easy walk. Late June and the wild dog rose is in bloom ...
... near the summit of Olympus, its delicate scent competing with the smell of pine. My car nestles in a favourite cool spot between the trees Between Troodos and Platres there are several view points. This one shows the Akrotiri salt lake in the distance and the much depleted Kouris reservoir.
Back in Kato Paphos it is the festival of Kataklysmos ... ...and many travelling market traders are selling their wares ... ... aided by the fact that traffic is not being allowed to enter the new promenade area ... let's hope it remains so.
Another picture that fails to do justice to the fabulous countryside - here above the village of Dora Approaching Dora from the mountains Leaving the village of Archimandrita
Goats in the road near Archimandrita Kouris Dam has only a few days water remaining and it will be another 6-8 weeks before we see any possibility of rain. After much squabbling the Paphos local authority has acceded to shop owners to allow one-way traffic on the pedestrian area ...
... of Poseidonos Avenue, and has erected steel posts to keep the traffic and public apart ... ... not that the shopkeepers will be impressed with the compromise as there is very little space available for parking. The Portopafos Hotel (left of the picture) remains closed and the former artificial 'beach' area  has been replaced by a decked area.
Work continues slowly on the coastal path near to the Alexander The Great hotel. But around the lighthouse area, the path is complete ... ... apart from the erection of sheltered seating areas, the frames of which have been delivered to the site.
September and autumn colours come to the mountain areas ... ... and ski slopes await the winter snows... ... but those clouds on the horizon may only bring a shower of rain.
Those whose sightseeing is done from the window of a car will miss the delights of this spectacular 7km walk around the summit of Olympos The path winds through trees ... ...along rocky paths ...
... that must be negotiated with care ... ... and while the views to the coast are often breathtaking ...  ... don't forget to look up.
At times the path seems to disappear into space ... ... but there's always another view around the next bend - here of Prodromos, the highest village in Cyprus. I never get tired of these mountain walks ...
which are at their best in Spring and Autumn ... ... when the sun is low in the sky and shines through the trees ... ... until finally the path returns to its start location with a glimpse of Morphou Bay in the Turkish occupied part of the island.
Spot the water in the Mavrokolympos Dam ... ... but Latsi has enough to waste on the lawns ... ... even if there are ...
... not so many folks around to appreciate it. Between Platres and Troodos there remains a short length of the old single track mountain road ... ... where (in October) the forest shows its autumn colours.
The road crosses the Kryos river alongside which ... ... is the Kaledonia nature trail ... ... a spectacular walk, which, if approached from the old road ...
... winds down the steep valley ... ... along stony paths ... ... that are heavy going ...
... and should only be attempted ... ... if you are fit. This is no place for tourist flip flops! Some of the steeper parts have seemingly endless steps...
... and the path criss-crosses the stream with occasional bridges but more usually stepping stones. There are pretty pools ... ... and boulders to negotiate ...
... and sometimes the route ahead... ... is not so obvious. There are pools where you can see small trout...
... and the path continues ... ... to the Kaledonia Falls ... ... which have the rare quality for Cyprus rivers of running water all year round - even in the severe drought of 2008.
The path continues for another 2 km down to the trout farm at Platres, but if your car is at the top and you don't fancy the climb back up the trail, you can take instead the road ... ... used by the Jeep safaris to access the falls. This un-surfaced road runs for about 3 km back to the main Platres/Troodos highway and it is a steep heart pounding climb all the way. Sadly there were a couple of examples of fly tipping in this beautiful location - here mattresses and chairs, probably from a hotel refit.
Most people start the trail from the Platres end ... ...and if you are really lazy and have a 4x4 you can turn left at these steps and drive up. But have a look at the trout farm close to the entrance.
The path is just as rugged ... ... below the falls ... ... and the 2 km path ...
... climbs relentlessly ... ... for about 400 metres. When I said flip flops were inadvisable ...
... some people obviously hadn't seen this page. You get a different view of the falls ... ...as you approach from below ...
... but you come here for the walk, rather than the spectacle. I wonder if the lady with the flimsy sandals knows about this path down... ... it is another 2 km but much easier going than the Kaledonia Trail.
Meanwhile, back in Kato Paphos work continues ... ... on the coastal path ... ... from the Municipal Beach towards Yeroskipou.
Now that's what I call a chain saw Another week, another mountain trail ... ... this time the 7km circular route around the summit of Mt. Olympos again
This route is fairly level ... ... with only a few traps ... ...for the unwary.
The path features two giant black pine trees. This is the second and arguably larger of the two, and those who have walked this far have less energy left for the vandalism that has been inflicted on the other. Kourion (Curium). It has been many years since I stepped inside this ancient site and now the 2000+ year old mosaics are covered to protect them ... ... from the sun?
More mosaics ... ...at Kourion Parts of the Roman bath house.,,,
... including the under floor heating system ... ... for the hot and warm pools. Chief feature of the site is the ...
... ancient amphitheatre. Still in regular use ... ... the theatre offers excellent acoustics for performances ... ... but you should take a cushion
The site offers magnificent views ... ...over Kourion Beach ... ... to the cliffs beyond.
November and the Medrano travelling circus is in town, which I suppose will annoy some animal rights kill joys. Frankly I have seen animals under more stress at a horse race meeting or show jumping trial. Near to Kourion is another ancient site - the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates. On my last visit to the site, many years ago, this covered area was under excavation.
The site has been developed ... ... and presented ... ... as a tourist attraction ...
... but does not compare in scale to the nearby Kourion site. It is a pleasant walk (missed by most visitors) from the Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates entrance to the ancient Stadium ... ... where ancient Romans would ...
... run, jump and throw javelins etc., much like a present day's naturist athletics meeting. A surfeit of direction signs at the harbour end of the one way section of Poseidonos Avenue, Kato Paphos has caused some confusion for motorists ... ... but if it all gets too much, you can sit and contemplate in one of the newly erected shelters on the coastal path.
The Hala Sultan Tekke mosque near Larnaca Airport is the fourth most important religious shrine in the world for the Muslim faith ... ...and has been much improved since my last visit, though I would avoid the public lavatories The Larnaca salt lake offers some dreamy views of the Larnaca suburbs reflected in the waters of the lake. You may also see the migratory flamingos that frequent the lake, but which are almost invisible in this photograph.
Christmas is coming and the largest tree in Paphos has been erected in the car park of the Paphos Mall ...  ... alongside a giant Santa which looks far better in the 'flesh' than on this photograph. Continuing the festive theme a friend of mine from Emba village is attracting a lot of sightseers with his display of lights...
... and at Kato Paphos the new streetlights have been festooned with splendid illuminated panels ... ... and the footlights along the seaward edge of the footpath are a nice touch. At Kato Paphos the new street lighting in daylight (without the Christmas decorations).
For some even substantial barriers at the ends of the coastal path are no obstacle to vehicle access. Not yet open to the public, a sneak preview of the progress on the coastal path by the Portopafos Hotel. At Latsi the coastal path to Prodromi is deserted under a blue December sky.
Latsi harbour ... ... is silent at this time of year. The gentle sweep of the coast near to my home ...
... along the coastal path a pleasant afternoon's walk. From the end of the Chlorakas section of the coastal path towards Paphos. The path has still to be completed between the viewpoint and the hotel to the right of the one in the centre of the skyline. This ship was grounded on rocks in a storm years ago, but may be removed before too long (though previous attempts at removal failed).
   
Nearby a fisherman puts out his nets for the night.